Cultured Palate: International Dishes from China

3. Hairy Crab

Jiangsu cuisine is made up of three distinct culinary traditions centered around the three major cities in the Jiangsu region: Nanjing, Suzhou, and Yangzhou. Since freshwater seafood is plentiful in this area, many Jiangsu specialties focus on fish. You’ll find fish in soups, stews, or cooked whole. Local hairy crabs are a popular delicacy, available in restaurants in the late summer or early fall. They’re steamed, then eaten with a simple sauce of vinegar and ginger to emphasize the freshness of the crab’s sweet flesh.

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