A Whale of a Time: Going on a Visa Run in Thailand

Sleeping With the Roaches

Vientiane hasn’t done a whole lot to cultivate a culture of tourism, and its primary purpose is to cater to expatriates living in Thailand who must leave to acquire/renew their visas. This philosophy extends to the city’s hotels, and there aren’t a lot of options that don’t either cost more than a Laotian’s annual salary, or come with roommates of the six-legged nature.

My wallet and spirit had already been broken, so I took the first place within walking distance of the embassy that promised plenty of creepy crawly companions. I paid the 25 bucks for my graffiti strewn room and checked my watch; it was noon. Time to sleep off the previous 12 hours.

Awaking in my smoke stained room around dinner time, I figured I might as well try to make the best of my evening. In the bathroom, the faulty wall mounted hot water heater had a drooping and faded sticker of a whale that said, “Whale of a time!”

Was it a pun? Was it a misappropriated idiom? I couldn’t make heads or tails of it, but it seemed a perfect representation of my mercurial feelings toward this visa run. I cleaned up and set out to have a whale of an evening. Whatever that meant.

Ryan Farley / Own Work